I have recently returned home from my second Thailand trip. This was a trip I had been planning ever since I met baby “Nadia” late last year.
Nadia was a street begging elephant in Phuket who stole my heart, and ignited my passion in raising awareness for elephants across the world.
Seeing Nadia tied up outside that hotel, and forced to endure such life of sadness broke my heart. Her reality is something I’m sure the majority of her “fans” taking photos with her were completely unaware of. This made me feel it was my absolute responsibility to seek out and learn as much as I could about the plight of elephants in Asia, specifically in Thailand. I wanted to educate myself, and as many others as I could, on the rights and wrongs of elephant tourism…. Which brought about my latest adventure.
But first, some background info…
History
So many people want to experience elephants because, like me, they are genuinely animal lovers. Elephants are majestic, regal, unusual, beautiful, and the most archaic beings I believe we have still in existence. People want to know these animals, experience them to the full, and the way elephant rides are literally plastered everywhere you go in Chiang Mai, and glorified through travel agencies around the globe, you can see why the tens of thousands of people flock to Thailand to get their “bucket list” ride to fulfil their desire to be close to these magnificent creatures.
A snapshot of the endless adverts for elephant riding and shows in Chiang Mai
Little do these people know about the torture that these elephants – each and EVERY one of these elephants – endures to become domesticated enough to be able to be ridden.
Wrapped up in the excitement and the genuine love of these animals many have, some not so glaringly obvious questions remain. Questions to me that have always been red flags, and answers that aren’t readily available.
Q: Aren’t elephants wild ? Surely they don’t just come up willingly and want to be ridden? So how does this happen?
And….
Q: They are HUGE! An elephant is just under a tonne roughly when they’re born! So what makes them so obedient? Ele-sized kongs filled with bananas and watermelon? (they LOVE these by the way)
Sadly for the vast majority of elephants, the process is not a kind one…
The Pajaan
The process of domestication is called the “Pajaan“, aka “elephant crushing”. Elephants as early as 18 months old are subjected to this in order to break or “crush” their spirits, so they will obey human command. This century old ritual is designed to train elephants with violence, and also make the baby elephant non-responsive to their mothers, and allow authority to remain with their human handler or “mahout”.
The Pajaan can last day and night until the baby elephant’s spirit is broken
During the Pajaan, corporal punishment tactics are used, and elephants are chained to the spot by all four legs, unable to move, while repeatedly stabbed, whipped, beaten and maimed. They are deprived of sleep, food and water until their spirit is broken and they obey. The process can last days, and many elephants don’t even survive it.
But the horror doesn’t end there. They live in fear for the remainder of their enslaved lives as domesticated elephants, subjected to continual chainings, beatings, stabbings and starvation in order to remain “obedient”.
There are only about 1500-2000 elephants left in the wild in Thailand, with similar numbers of domestic elephants. Wild elephants have some protection laws in Thailand, but sadly, this is not the same for domesticated elephants. They are treated as livestock or property, with any rights and welfare little to none.
Since logging became illegal in Thailand in 1989, many elephant owners have needed to find new work for their elephants.
Logging only got outlawed in Thailand in 1989, but continues illegally in Burma where many Thai elephant owners send their elephants
Thai people have traditionally owned elephants for centuries, and many rely on them for income. However, with a surge in lucrative elephant tourism, comes untrained mahouts, some as young as 12 years old, who rent these elephants from wealthy owners, to make an income. These untrained handlers are fearful of elephants, having not usually grown up with them as traditional mahouts have, and as such, they commonly resort to violent methods of control. Repeated stabbings in sensitive parts of the elephants’ ears, heads or their behinds are routine practices, while the elephants beg, trek, ride and perform for tourists.
Tools of torture
Hooks, nails, and bamboo sticks are used to punish and control elephants. When not being ridden or working, the elephants are chained by one, or up to all four legs, which dig deeply into their skin, causing pain, scarring and possible sites of infection. When not being worked, they are commonly kept in inadequate areas, out in the elements, standing in their own excrement, and chained tightly.
A hook used on a baby elephant
Chains and shackles
The handler uses the pole and hook to drive it deeply into the elephants ear
Holes left as scars of a sadder time
A bull hook used to stab at their heads
Scars on a baby’s head from nails and hooks
They are controlled by fear and pain. When all an animal knows is fear, that isn’t rewarded or punished for performance of a particular act, they don’t learn how to act. Elephants being constantly stabbed is likened to a dog constantly being yanked on his lead throughout a walk, even when walking at heel. It’s confusing, and not a learning tool. Their life is one of constant fear, pain and anxiety
Wild elephants roam large distances each day, and when domesticated elephants are chained constantly, they are deprived of this essential part of their lives. Elephants are very social beings that usually live in herds, and are fiercely protective of one another. Domesticated elephants are often segregated, and develop a habit to sway side to side to help release endorphins, that they would normally get from their walking and interactions. This sway is also a sign of stress and mental anguish.
Swaying as a sign of distress
Feet injury can equal death
Elephants are heavy. Very heavy. Adults weighing in between on average 2-4 tonnes. Foot injuries come from a multitude of reasons: constant time on hard concrete floorings leading to cracked feet; standing in their own faeces and urine leading to skin breakdown and infection; and land mine injuries during illegal logging work. Their feet carry a massive load, and as such, if injuries to their feet are left untreated, this can be a leading cause of death in elephants.
How? If elephants can’t be upright on their feet due to pain, they are at a very high risk of dying if they lye down too long, as their massive body weight compresses their internal organs, leading to organ failure and ultimately death.
Land mine foot injury
Elephant feet are commonly covered in cuts and abscesses
Begging
Bangkok was the centre of the begging elephant trade, with many elephants also used in Phuket to attract tourists. Although now deemed illegal in Bangkok, the fines are a pittance in comparison to what elephants can possibly make their handlers in a night’s work from tourists, and as such, it continues. Elephants eyes are very sensitive to light, and many become blinded by street and car lights, not to mention the constant camera flashes. Many become blind. The actuality of cars hitting them is real, and many accidents occur on footpaths and bridges not designed to hold the weight of an elephant. Foot issues from endless time on concrete, sleep and food deprivation, nutritional deficiencies from drunk tourists feeding them lollies or beer, along with the constant fear of punishment, it all adds to the horror existence for these elephants. This is why it’s encouraged to not give these people your money, as it only perpetuates this industry.
Babies are tied up for begging outside hotels, bars, restaurants, streets… anywhere.
A begging elephant with a light reflector on its tail in the hope cars see it and won’t hit it
Trekking/ riding
The sheer weight of the carriage alone used to carry tourists, is enough to deform an elephant spines over time. Many people do not know an elephant spine is fragile and not designed to be ridden. Their size does not mean they are meant to carry large weight on their back.
The ride saddle imprints after many years, and leaves everlasting deformation to elephants’ spines.
Interestingly, even though so many crave this experience, there have been countless times I have heard people say after their ride how “horrible” it was once they see the sadness it involves. Thankfully I haven’t ridden an elephant, but I know many who have and wish they hadn’t. I have made it my aim to try and do as much as I cant to educate as many as I can, as knowing after the fact that you contributed to an animal’s suffering when you’re an animal lover, is one of the most gut wrenching things that can happen.
This is a trekking elephant’s dangerous, and tortuous reality.
Shows/ exhibits
Fear and pain tactics are once again used to make an elephant perform, paint, headstand, massage people (yep you heard right!)…. The list goes on how they exploit these briar idol animals! Make no mistake, these are NOT natural behaviours of elephants. All circuses and shows involving animals are cruel, no matter what falsities they proclaim.
How is this natural?!
An elephant being trained to peddle
Note that the handler is always close by to the elephant’s ear to control
Ivory
It has recently been banned the import and export of ivory to Thailand, with many signs now adoring Bangkok airport of this. However, if you look further into this law, it’s stated that if ivory in possession is found to be that of a domesticated Thai elephant, that died of natural causes, it can be kept and is legal. How is this proven ? That is anyone’s guess.
What does this actually mean?
Elephant breeding programs
A cute baby and the words “breeding” and “conservation” would be enough to convince many people that a facility is pro animal, but be aware, these places are virtually elephant farms, like that of puppy farms in the western world, with constant breeding, poor welfare and cruelty.
Does anyone ask at these places what happens to the babies once they’re “too old” ie not cute enough anymore? No, and reality is painful. They will inevitably be sold and used by private owners to rent to beg and trek… And so the cycle continues…
Similarly, has anyone asked why these babies and mothers are separated? The videos are viral of “cute” babies playing in tubs of water while in the background their mothers are chained and rock incessantly side to side.
This is not a cute picture
These pictures get people suckered in to think these places are conserving elephant numbers, but actually only adding to elephant slave numbers. These places also offer volunteering too, again appealing to the animals lovers heart strings.
Babies need their mothers. They suckle even up until the age of ten.
Now what for elephant tourism?
What do animal lovers who want to encounter elephants do, as they clearly don’t want to contribute to the above? With all this information, it can be thought that all elephant encounters involve abuse and sadness.
Fear not. Kind elephant tourism DOES exist! Kind methods of training and interactions with elephants DO exist! You CAN experience elephants without any of the above awful realities!
And here is how…
KIND ANIMAL TOURISM
I set out on this journey to prove that animal lovers everywhere had options in their elephant experiences, and that rides and shows are not the option. I was delighted to see how many ways you can interact with elephants in Thailand, with each one being kind and cruelty free.
Stop one: THE GLOBAL MARCH FOR ELEPHANTS AND RHINOS
My journey begins in Chiang Mai, October 4th, at the inaugural “Global March for Elephants and Rhinos (GMFER)”. This was the first time this march had been run in Chiang Mai, and led by none other that the elephant whisperer herself, Lek Chailert. Lek began Elephant Nature Park – a sanctuary for rescued elephants from the trekking, tourism and illegal logging trades. Meeting this woman was like meeting the pope to Catholics for me! I was slightly speechless as I introduced myself, which was followed by an amazing smile of recognition, and by a large embrace. She is a small lady, but with a large presence, and a massive heart!
What an experience! Forgotten was the jet lag and only four hours sleep, as we were swept up in the massss of people, engulfed in the message we were sending as we poured out into the streets of Chiang Mai. We were definitely a voice for the animals that day, in a sea of black shirts that read “Our bodies…. Our lives!”, and chanting “Save an elephant, ride a bike!” at the top of our lungs.
People power!
Lek delivers a speech at the march
Fact
The GMFER is run every year, and can be found across the globe. It is a must for every elephant lover!
Stop two: ELEPHANT NATURE PARK
The next day brought us to Elephant Nature Park, for a week of volunteering. Lek began this place over a decade ago, with her first rescue, Mae Perm, still there to this day. It has since grown into absolute haven for 65 elephants, who get to be free, and just be elephants. No tricks, no rides, no hooks. Freedom. Seeing the before and after photos of so many rescued elephants really does show what an amazing job these people do in rehabilitating elephant physically. But it was seeing them interact with each other and humans again, that showed how love can really heal.
Mae Perm and Jokia show such love for each other #elephantPDA
While on our stay, our duties included preparing elephant food (they eat ALOT), cutting corn, planting grass and trees, making fences (they like to body rub themselves on stuff a lot and break trees and posts with no effort!), picking up elephant poo (so much poo!), and walking dogs (oh yeah, there are over 430 dogs here, along with many cats, horses, water buffalo and more). As a result, you are never bored at ENP!
The first dog walk I’ve ever done with an elephant backdrop!
You are never far from sight of one of these amazing giants (and their magnificent bums!), and waking to an elephant trumpet is probably something I miss the most! (Alarm tone change in need perhaps?). They way they interact with each other is mesmerising, as they show such love and affection to one another.
Slightly obsessed with the cuteness of their bums!!
Babies are the number one in their herds, and are protected fiercely
The informational nights were a highlight, where you learn so much about the elephants’ situation in Asia. Such amazing work has be done with positive reinforcement training at ENP to allow vet care.
Target training with a ball ended stick to encourage lifting of feet for vet care – all rewarded with MANY bananas!
All this, plus the amazing Thai massages by the village ladies after a hard days work, the vegetarian/ vegan meal smorgasbords, and of course the amazing people you meet, rounded out an experience of a lifetime.
What a setting!
A week at Elephant Nature Park changes you. It was here that I learnt how to interact the BEST with elephants. We as humans want animals to love us – more for us than them. Who hasn’t been guilty of holding their beloved dog to their face too long, when he’s squirming to get away?
No words needed
Free will is how animals love us. I learnt that here in the biggest way. ENP have some of the most abused elephants – mentally and physically – that you could ever see. They deserve their space now to act on their own free will. One perfect example is a beauty called Medo. Medo’s hips were both broken by a bull elephant after being chained and forcibly used for breeding. As if this wasn’t bad enough, she was still used for trekking after this. To watch Medo move is both heart breaking and heart warming – she is a fighter, and a definite favourite there at ENP!
Beautiful Medo
There are many babies also at ENP. ENP does not breed elephants as part of their project, and have measures to stop this occurrence, however they do have some resident babies there. Naavan, Dok Mai and Yin Dee are the youngest of the babies at ENP, with watchful mothers and nannies to protect them. These babies will never have to endure the awful process of the Pajaan, which in turn, makes them the “wildest” elephants here and as such, the most dangerous. As such, interactions with them need to be at a distance, despite just how damn cute they are! For our and their safety!
Naavan is getting older now, and doesn’t know his own strength…
One silly tourist’s actions to get their selfish “selfie” could be the end of these rescue places. The publicity a wild elephant injury could cause, at no fault of the elephant itself!
Eyes wide open, ears pinned back, terrified look…. This baby is not having fun!
After leaving ENP, it wasn’t long (I think I managed two days), before I needed my next ELE “fix”…
Stop three: ENP’s KAREN EXPERIENCE
The Karen tribe people and their love of their elephants is palpable at “insert name of place”. The Karen Experience is one of many ENP initiatives that work with pre existing owners or camps to help them change their ways to a kinder else future. On our trip, three female elephants (Mae Boon, Miguel and Wongan) had been rescued from trekking and logging, and brought back to their original homes, to offer alternative income to their owners. And what do the elephants have to do here? NOTHING! Just be themselves! No tricks, no rides, no shows…. Here you will walk with them, feed them and watch them bathe in mud and swim with them in waterfalls….this experience made my skin tingle, and cheeks ache from smiling… It was so soulful, and as they willingly come to you (or maybe it was the bananas ;)) they have no fear of humans. They do their thing, and if they choose to come to you, this is by FAR more rewarding that that forced picture in their personal space. Being welcomed into their homes, learning their stories and experiencing their elephants is a day I will never forget.
Water beauties!
Mae Boon stole my heart
Does my bum look big in this?
Stop four: WILDLIFE FRIENDS FOUNDATION THAILAND
Rescue, rehab and release is the theme of this amazing project, located about two hours outside Bangkok.
Wildlife Friends Foundation Thailand offers day trips, volunteering, and soon to be overnight stays allow you to experience elephants, along with a multitude of other rescued animals, in a setting like no other. On arrival you are taken on a tour around to see all the animals, and hear their stories from the volunteers. Started by Dutchman, Edwin Wiek in 2001, there are 15 elephants in WFFT and all are living free on the grounds. There is a baby called “Pin” which means princess in Thai, and she has her own herd of nannies and her mum watching over her at all times.
Beautiful Pin and her herd
Watching them all free and roaming was so magnificent to see…But it was beautiful Boon Mee that stole my heart. This gorgeous girl we walked through the jungle with, feeding her pineapple and watermelon as we went, and boy did she get under my skin! She even had me singing to her “You Are My Sunshine” over and over while she smiled and spoke to my heart. I will be back to sing to her again.
Boon Mee – what a stunner!
Stop five: BOON LOTT’S ELEPHANT SANCTUARY
My final stop, and the one my whole trip was based around, was Boon Lott’s Elephant Sanctuary, aka BLES, located in Sukhothai, about an hour flight from Bangkok. Katherine Connor, the founder of BLES, has been a pivotal role in my learning about Thai elephant culture, and was the place Nadia was offered a forever home. This place was already special to me, but when I arrived, it literally took my breathe away.
Beautiful Lotus at the breakfast area
Elephants walks twice a day with dogs in tow
Gossip Girl cuddle!
The surroundings, the space, the vibe, it all just make you at peace at once. But it was love between mahout and elephant here that blew me away. The secret massages and pats, the mahouts’ proud smiles when speaking of their elephants, the tenderness these animals deserve and crave is everywhere here. Here the elephants pick their mahout, and that bond stays solid until sadly one or the other passes on.
Pure love
Two days before our arrival to BLES, saw Naamfon, who would have been at BLES for her year anniversary in under a week, passed away. I saw her burial site, heard her stories and felt the hole she left with her departure. I heard how her mahout was a broken man once she passed… But it was watching Katherine’s face, her voice tremble as she spoke of her sweet Naamfon, that is was clear this gentle giant was part of her family, her soul, and her loss was a deep seeded one.
Lovely Naamfon. Her passing was a true tragedy, – RIP beautiful girl – forever under your fig tree
Katherine allows you to know the lady behind BLES, she shares her stories and time, and inspired me and many others I know too, to help the elephants.
This woman just oozes love for all animals. From her insistence to perform the Gosssip Girls (aka Wassana, Lotus and Pang Dow) feet care each day herself, and her relentless journey to better the lives of all animals in her care that include not just her 16 elephants , but many dogs, cats, pigs and even tortoises, as well as supply free desexing and animal care to her village, is something that sets this lady apart from the pack. It’s here that you see all animals living as one. It’s here you see how life should be.
Katherine’s commitment in allowing them to express their natural instincts, and her “love of seeing them learn to be elephants” without imposing herself on their space, shows her selfless love of these animals, and her interests in their rights over people’s wants.
#heaven
RESCUES
During my trip, two elephant rescues occurred, which I literally missed by only days at both ENP and BLES. Oh how I would have loved to see them arrive at their new forever homes!
MeeSook
MeeSook was rescued from a trekking camp in Krabi, in mid October, and to ENP, who’s friend from the same camp JaiDee also lives. What a beautiful reunion this was to see!
MeeSook and JaiDee touch trunks after being reunited
MeeSook
Permpoon
Permpoon arrived two nights after we left BLES. She was also rescued from a trekking camp, this time in Chiang Mai. She is slowly learning to trust humans again, and adapt to her new home.
The lovely Permpoon – safe now at BLES
Leaving this time I know a whole new Thailand – one I want to return to and urge you all to visit. I realise I was naive in many of my views before, and understand a whole lot more about the situation these animals, and their owners, face.
So all you animal lovers, make you next journey memorable for the right reasons. Make it kind. Whether you want a day trip, or you want to volunteer for longer, make sure you do your homework and research. This means the place should have no riding (bareback or carriage), no hooks, no breeding programs, no ivory sale and no shows. Walk with them, let them have their space, watch them interact with each other…this is the most beautiful thing you will ever see!… and if they want to, let the eles come to you.
Magnificent Wassana came to me on our walk one day at BLES
Let their eyes tell you their story…
These eyes tell a life now of safety and freedom
Watching an elephant be an elephant, and the feeling of justice and love these places I visited bestows on these elephants, trumps rides and stupid shows any day. They let them just be.
This is the Thailand I have come to love; this is the Thailand I will return to over and over!
If you want to visit, or donate to help these places continue to save the elephants of Thailand, please follow the links below:
ENP http://www.elephantnaturepark.org/
WFFT http://www.wfft.org/
kindanimaltourism 